"TUESDAY"

The free pattern is located at the bottom of this blog and can be found on Ravelry.

After making the pattern "Monday Monday", I could  see the star shape in the center but it seemed hidden amongst the many loops and spaces.  So "Tuesday is basically the "Monday Monday" center with changes to fill in around the star so the shape is more accented.

Here are "Monday" and "Tuesday" side by side so you can see the similarities and the differences:

PATTERN:

 Below is the pattern.  I only ask that you share your finished works on my Ravelry page, under "projects".  I would love to see your work, especially if done in  different colors!  Pattern has been multi-tested, but stuff happens.  If you find any errors, please let me know so I can make corrections.

“Tuesday” is the same as “Monday Monday” thru row 13.  It starts changing at row 14 to accent the star shape.

Made with size 10 thread and size 7 (1.65mm) hook.  Approx 8” diameter.

Special Stitches:

V-stitch-1:  dc, ch3, dc

V-stitch-2: 2dc, ch1, 2dc

Base V stitch: dc in dc, in loop make 2dc-ch2-2dc; dc in dc (you will have a “V” with 3 dc on each side and a ch2 in between)

Notes:  most patterns start a dc row with a “ch3”.  I don’t like that look, so my rows start with “ch2”.  If you prefer the “ch3, dc……”, feel free to substitute your preference except where noted the beginning ch2 is required in rows 14.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.    Ch6, join with slip stitch (6) 

2.    Ch2, 15dc in ring. Join with sl st to top of ch2. (16)

3.    Ch2, dc in same space as join; 2dc in each dc around. Join. (32)

4.    Ch2, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next dc; ch3, sk next dc, *(dc in next dc; 2dc in next dc; 1 dc in next dc, ch3, sk next dc); repeat from (*) around. Join with sl st to top of ch3. (8 sp; 8 4dc clusters) 

5.    Ch2, 2dcdec over negxt 2 dc, dc in next dc; ch2, dc in ch3 space, ch2, *(dc in next dc, 2dcdec over next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch2, dc in ch3 space, ch2), repeat from (*) around, join with sl st to top of ch2. (8 clusters; 16 sp) 

6.    Ch2, 2dcdec over next 2 dc, *( [ch3, dc in next ch2 sp] twice, ch3, 3dc-dec over next 3 dc,) repeat from (*) around, ch3,  join to top of beginning cluster. (24 sp, 8 clusters) 

7.    Sl st in first 2 ch of next loop, ch5, dc in same stitch, *V-stitch-1 in center stitch of next loop; repeat from (*) around. Join with sl st to 2^nd ch of the beginning ch5. (24 loops) 

8.    Sl st to middle stitch of next loop; ch5, dc in same stitch, sk dc, Base-V, *(V-stitch-1 in center stitch of next 2 loops, make Base-V in next loop), repeat from (*) around; V-stitch-1 in next loop; join with sl st in 2^nd stitch of the ch5.  (8 Base-V’s; 16 spaces). 

9.    Sl st to center ch of next loop; ch1, sc in same loop, [ch3, dc in next 3 dc] twice; *([ch3, sc in next sp], twice, [ch3, dc in next 3 dc] twice ), repeat from (*) around. Ch 3, sc in next sp, ch 3, sc in original ch1 at base of beginning loop. (16 sets of 3dc; 32 sp) 

10. Sl st to top of 1^st dc. Ch2, dc in next 2 dc, ch 3, sc in sp, ch 3 dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next sp, sc in next sp, ch3, *(dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sc in sp, ch 3 dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next sp, sc in next sp, ch3), join with sl st to top of beginning ch2. (28 loops; 16 sets of 3dc) 

11. Ch2, dc in next 2 dc, [ch3, sc in next sc] twice, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch2, sc in next sc, ch2, *(dc in next 3dc, , [ch3, sc in next sc] twice, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch2, sc in next sc, ch2 ). Repeat around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch2. (40 loops, 16 sets of 3dc). 

12. Ch2, dc in next 2 dc; [ch3, sc in loop] 3 times; ch3, dc in next 3 dc; ch2, *(dc in next 3 dc; [ch3, sc in loop] 3 times; ch3, dc in next 3 dc; ch2). Repeat around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch2.  (40 loops, 16 sets of 3dc). 

13. Ch2, dc in next 2 dc; [ch3, sc in next loop] 4 times; ch3, dc in next 3 dc; ch1, *(dc in next 3 dc; [ch3, sc in next loop] 4 times; ch3, dc in next 3 dc, ch1). Repeat around. Join with st st to top of beginning ch2. (40 loops, 8 ch1 spaces; 16 sets of 3dc). 

14. Sl st to next dc; Ch2 (required), dc in next dc. ch3; [sc in next loop, ch3] twice; 3 dc in next loop; sc in next sp; ch3, sc in next loop; ch3; *([dc2tog over next 2 dc] 3 times; [ch3, sc in next loop] twice;35 dc in next sp; sc in next sp; ch3, sc in next loop; ch3). Repeat from (*) around.  [Dc2tog over next 2 dc] twice. Join with sl st to top of beginning 2dctog.   

15. Sl st to center of next loop; sc in same stitch; ch 3, sc in next loop, *(dc in sc stitch; dc in next 3 dc; dc in next sc; [sc in next sp; ch3] twice, 3dctog over next 3 dc; ** [ch3; sc in next sp] twice; ). Repeat from (*) around, stop at (**) at the end of the round.  Ch3, join with sl st to beginning ch1. (32 sp, 8 3dctog clusters, 8 groups of 5dc’s) 

16. Sl st to center of next loop;  sc in same loop; *(2dc in next sc; 2dc in next dc; dc in next 3 dc; 2 dc in next dc; 2 dc in next sc; [sc in next sp; ch3]  3 times; ** Sc in next sp.) Repeat from * around, ending at **.  Join with sl st in original ch1. (24 sp; 8 sets of 11 dc’s) 

17. Ch2; dc in same sp; *(dc in next dc; 2dc in next dc; dc in next 7 dc; 2 dc in next dc; dc in next dc; 2dc in next sc; sc in sp; [ch3, sc in next sp] twice). **; 2dc in next sc,  Repeat from * around, stopping at ** at end of round; Join with sl st to top of original ch2. (16 sp, 8 sets of 17dc)

18. Ch2, *([2dc in next dc; dc in next 6 dc] twice; 2 dc in next dc; dc in next dc; 2dc in next sc; sc in next sp; ch3; sc in next space; 2 dc in sc.) Repeat from (*) around; Join with sl st to top of original ch2.  (8 sp; 8 sets of 24dc) 

19. Ch2; dc in next 21 dc; dc in sc; sc in sp; *(dc in sc; dc in 24dc; dc in sc; sc in sp). Repeat from (*) around.  dc in sc; dc in next 2 dc; join with sl st to top of original ch2.  (8 sc; 8 sets of 26 dc’s).                                             

20. Ch2, dc in every stitch around.  join with sl st to top of original ch2. (216 dc) 

21. (Ch3, sk dc; sc in next dc) around. for last loop, ch1, hdc in base of starting ch3. (107 sp) 

22. (ch3, sc in next loop) around.  For last loop, ch1, hdc in base of started ch3. (107 sp) 

23.  (ch3, sc in next loop) around. For last loop, ch3, sl st into base or original ch3. (107 sp) 

24. Sl st into next sp; ch2; 2hdc in sp; 3hc in each sp around. Join with sl st; weave in ends; block.

 

Monday Monday

The written pattern is found at the very end of this narrative. It can also be found on "Ravelry".

"MONDAY MONDAY" DOILY

 I have been working on smaller projects to use up my stash of leftover yarns and threads. The other day, I just picked up my size 7 hook and size 10 thread and just started crocheting.  When I first learned to crochet, at the age of 7, we couldn't afford many pattern books (and it was "back in the day" before internet....WAY before internet!), making a doily under the "make it up as you go" tactic was pretty common.

My first version turned out ok, but I saw some things I wanted to change.  I also had not written down any of my steps while making the first one,  so making the second one gave me a chance to do that.

Here is a side by side comparison of the prototype ad the final version.  The first one (left) was done in a color called "Deep Ocean".  The second was done in a seafoam green.The changes are subtle. Basically there were two changes...

First one: I grabbed only one chain-row for this effect.  On the second one, I held off on this wrap until  the next row, then grabbed TWO chain-rows from below.  The difference, again, is subtle, but I'll explain further as we go along.

I also changed the border.  The original was just a ch3 loop, which I thought would give it shape when blocked, but it looked too messy to me. Putting a ch3 between the dc's in the border gave it a crisp point after blocking.

As shown below, the "grab one" vs "grab two" difference is in the line that runs along the top of the "V".  In the original, the line looks like just a straight thread running around the design.

In the final version, the "grab two" version gives this row a little boucne and curve .... more shape.

Below is the pattern.  I only ask that you share your finished works on my Ravelry page, under "projects".  I would love to see your work, especially if done in  different colors!  Pattern has been multi-tested, but stuff happens.  If you find any errors, please let me know so I can make corrections.

PATTERN:

NOTE:  Corrections have been made to rows 11 and 22.  -----July 30, 2021

Made with size 10 thread and size 7 (1.65mm) hook.  Approx 8” diameter.

Special Stitches:

V-stitch-1:  dc, ch3, dc

V-stitch-2: 2dc, ch1, 2dc

Base V stitch: dc in dc, in loop make 2dc-ch2-2dc; dc in dc (you will have a “V” with 3 dc on each side and a ch2 in between)

Notes:  most patterns start a dc row with a “ch3”.  I don’t like that look, so my rows start with “ch2”.  If you prefer the “ch3, dc……”, feel free to substitute your preference except where noted the beginning ch2 is required in row 14.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.    Ch6, join with slip stitch (6)

2.    Ch2, 15dc in ring. Join with sl st to top of ch2. (16) 

3.    Ch2, dc in same space as join; 2dc in each dc around. Join. (32) 

4.    Ch2, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next dc; ch3, sk next dc, *(dc in next dc; 2dc in next dc; 1 dc in next dc, ch3, sk next dc); repeat from (*) around. Join with sl st to top of ch3. (8 sp; 8 4dc clusters) 

5.    Ch2, 2dcdec over next 2 dc, dc in next dc; ch2, dc in ch3 space, ch2, *(dc in next dc, 2dcdec over next 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch2, dc in ch3 space, ch2), repeat from (*) around, join with sl st to top of ch2. (8 clusters; 16 sp) 

6.    Ch2, 2dcdec over next 2 dc, *( [ch3, dc in next ch2 sp] twice, ch3, 3dc-dec over next 3 dc,) repeat from (*) around, ch3,  join to top of beginning cluster. (24 sp, 8 clusters) 

7.    Sl st in first 2 ch of next loop, ch5, dc in same stitch, *V-stitch-1 in center stitch of next loop; repeat from (*) around. Join with sl st to 2^nd ch of the beginning ch5. (24 loops) 

8.    Sl st to middle stitch of next loop; ch5, dc in same stitch, sk dc, Base-V, *(V-stitch-1 in center stitch of next 2 loops, make Base-V in next loop), repeat from (*) around; V-stitch-1 in next loop; join with sl st in 2^nd stitch of the ch5.  (8 Base-V’s; 16 spaces). 

9.    Sl st to center ch of next loop; ch1, sc in same loop, [ch3, dc in next 3 dc] twice; *([ch3, sc in next sp], twice, [ch3, dc in next 3 dc] twice ), repeat from (*) around. Ch 3, sc in next sp, ch 3, sc in original ch1 at base of beginning loop. (16 sets of 3dc; 32 sp) 

10. Sl st to top of 1^st dc. Ch2, dc in next 2 dc, ch 3, sc in sp, ch 3 dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next sp, sc in next sp, ch3, *(dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sc in sp, ch 3 dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk next sp, sc in next sp, ch3), join with sl st to top of beginning ch2. (28 loops; 16 sets of 3dc) 

11. Ch2, dc in next 2 dc, [ch3, sc in next sp] twice, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch2, sc in next sp, ch2, *(dc in next 3dc, , [ch3, sc in next sp] twice, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch2, sc in next sp, ch2 ). Repeat around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch2. (40 loops, 16 sets of 3dc). 

12. Ch2, dc in next 2 dc; [ch3, sc in loop] 3 times; ch3, dc in next 3 dc; ch2, *(dc in next 3 dc; [ch3, sc in loop] 3 times; ch3, dc in next 3 dc; ch2). Repeat around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch2.  (40 loops, 16 sets of 3dc). 

13. Ch2, dc in next 2 dc; [ch3, sc in next loop] 4 times; ch3, dc in next 3 dc; ch1, *(dc in next 3 dc; [ch3, sc in next loop] 4 times; ch3, dc in next 3 dc, ch1). Repeat around. Join with st st to top of beginning ch2. (40 loops, 8 ch1 spaces; 16 sets of 3dc). 

14. Sl st to next dc; Ch2 (required), dc in next dc. ch3; [sc in next loop, ch3] twice; V-stitch-2 in center ch of next loop; [ch3, sc in next loop] twice; ch3; *([dc2tog over next 2 dc] 3 times; ch3, [sc in next loop, ch3] twice; V-stitch-2 in center ch of next loop; [ch3, sc in next loop] twice, ch3). Repeat around.  [Dc2tog over next 2 dc] twice. Join with sl st to top of beginning 2dctog.  

15. Sl st to center of next loop; sc in same stitch; ch 3, sc in next loop, ch 3, 2dc in next dc; dc in next dc; ch2; dc in next dc; 2dc in next dc; ch3, skip next sp [sc in next loop, ch3] twice; 3dctog over next 3 dc; ch3, [sc in next sp; ch3] twice; 2dc in next dc; dc in next dc; ch2; dc in next dc; 2dc in next dc; ch3, sk next loop; [sc in next loop; ch3] twice; 3dctog over next 3 dc; ch3). Repeat around. Join with sl st to starting ch1. 

16. Sl st to center of next loop;  sc in loop; *(ch4; skip next sp; dc in next 3 dc; ch3; dc in next 3 dc; ch4; skip next sp; sc in next sp; ⁂ [ch3, sc in next sp] 3 times;** Repeat from (*) to (**) around, stopping at ⁂ at the very end.  Then  [ch3, sc in next sp] twice; dc in beginning ch1. (48 sp; 16 sets of 3dc) 

17. Sc in joining loop; [ch5; dc in next  3 dc] twice; ch5; skip sp; sc in next sp;*( [ch3, sc in next sp] twice; [ch5; dc in next 3 dc] twice; ch5; skip sp; sc in next sp) Repeat around. Ch3, sc in next sp; ch1, dc in beginning sc. (40 spaces;  16 sets of 3 dc) 

18. Sc in same sp; [ch6; dc in next 3 dc] twice; ch6; skip next space; sc in next space; *(ch3; sc in next sp; [ch6; dc in next 3 dc] twice; ch6; skip next space; sc in next space). Repeat around. Ch1; dc in beginning ch1.  (32 loops; 16 sets of 3dc). 

19. Ch7 (dc + ch5); *([sc around chains from rows 17 & 18; ch5; 3dctog over next 3 dc; ch5] twice; sc in next loop, picking up chains from prev two rows; ch5;  dc in next sp; ch5). Repeat around.  Join with sl st in 2^nd chain of ch7.  (48 loops; 16 sets of dctog) 

20. Ch8 (dc + ch6); *(dc in next sc; ch6; dc in top of 3dctog; ch6 dc in sc; ch6; dc in top of 3dctog; ch6; dc in sc; ch6;** dc in dc; ch6); repeat around ending at (**). Then ch6; sl st in 2^nd ch on the ch8. (48 loops). 

21. Ch9 (dc + ch7); *(dc in next dc; ch7). Repeat. Join with sl st in 2^nd ch in the ch9. (48 loops) 

22. Sl st in first 4 chains of next loop. Ch1, sc in sp, going under chain made in row 20; ch8 (dc + ch6);  *(dc in next space, going under chain made in row 20; ch6). Repeat. Ch6, join with sl st in 2^nd ch in the original ch8. 

23. Ch2; *(in next loop make 4dc-ch3-4dc; dc in dc). Repeat around. Join with sl st to top of ch2.  Break off, weave in ends, block.

Background Matters

We all want to share our work with our friends and taking a photo of a finished project is a big part of  sharing.  Good lighting, good angles .... all important.  But the background is often overlooked. This article talks about how the background can change the whole look of a project.  I have included a doily of the same pattern, made in 2 different colors.  One is shot on three different backgrounds.




Photo #1: This was the original, shades of yellow with a white center, photographed on a black background (as most of my project are).  The black background shows the colors and detail of the design well.










Photo #2: The same design with different colors.  Brown center and edging with orange accents (for that sunflower look), and a seafoam green center.  The black background does not showcase the brown colors very well.










Photo #3: Same design and colors as photo #2, but on a corkboard background.  The brown colors show up much better in this lighter background.






Photo #4: Same design and colors as photo #2 but on a white background.  The brown colors really pop on this background and the seafoam green shows up with a bit more color here. (I don't have a super high grade camera on my phone so getting a good color is always a challenge for me!)



Normally, I shy away from white backgrounds.  And logically so, since a lot of doilies are ecru or white (or at least predominantly white).  But I think for this one, the white turned out to be the better choice as it really allowed the brown edging to pop and the central color showed up a bit.  I will confess it to be a close call between the the and the corkboard but am going with the white because of how it makes the border pop.

Design: "Sunny Morning"  South Maid Book 364, Article J.12

State Fair Winners

I entered my very first Indiana State Fair competition in 2017, at the age of 58 years old.  I had been crocheting for 51 years at this point, and it seems odd that this was my first year entering. 

It was my sister-in-law who suggested I enter the bedspread that had taken me 600 hours and close to 10 months to make.  My first entry in my first year at the fair and it won not only a First Place Ribbon but also won Best of Show!  Yes, I was in tears when I saw those ribbons on my blanket!

The State Fair Bug had bitten me, so I entered the next year (2018) and walked away with two more ribbons. Not first place, but that didn't matter to me.  I was just as excited that I won something!

In 2019, I entered three thread doilies and walked away with three more ribbons.

This one is not a doily but is a small tablecloth.
It measures approximately 45-50" across.

I'm pretty sure I'm addicted to this annual competition now.  I've already picked out next year's project.  Sometimes I wonder why I picked a pattern that starts out with "Chain 485" .... in thread!

I will keep you posted!!

Save Your Family History ... Save the Art

My cousin in California contacted me to see if I could help her.  She came across a number of doilies made by her grandmother (my aunt --- my mother and her grandmother were sisters) and asked if there was any way I could save them.

I had never done doily repair before but being a history person, preserving these pieces of family art and heirlooms became a do-or-die challenge.  I accepted.

Some of the threads were so aged, they were started to disintegrate.  Just stretching the doilies out with my hands would cause them to break.

I began by unraveling threads for a couple of reasons.  I needed a clean start and stop spot to add the new thread, and I needed a thread long enough to weave in so it wouldn't unravel anymore.

The repair itself was just a matter of "eyeballing" the pattern to figure out the stitches, then adding the new thread just like we would do when doing a color change.

On some of the doilies, you can definitely see the color difference.  This is because of new thread being combined into old, aged, and faded threads.  But as I explain to people, when anthropologists find a skull with pieces missing, they intentionally use a different colored clay or rebuilding compound to fill in the spaces, so they can tell which is the original bone and which is the repair.  So I told my cousin (and all future clients who came to be with repairs) "Your item is now anthropologically correct!"

When I finally finished these, I really felt great!  Not because of the newly discovered skill I didn't know I had (which WAS pretty cool!) but because I had managed to save some family heirlooms.  These 50+ year old pieces of hand made art will live on in our family for future generations to love and admire.

Here are the before and after photos.  I hope you like them.

Maric's Blanket

Well, silly me!  I found this article still in draft stage!  A quick update and it is ready for publishing!

Experienced eyes will spot some errors (compare the two "R"s), but my granddaughter won't notice!

This is a stitch called the Popcorn Stitch or I've seen it referred to as the Puffy Stitch.

I used this site for the pattern for the letters:  http://www.crochetnmore.com/babysabcsafghan.htm 

This afghan has about 150 ours invested in it.  I really like making personalized crochet items  like this.

It's All in the Detail Work!

Details.  Details. Do we really need those hand-cramping picots?  Blocking?  Is it really needed?

I am sharing some in-progress and before-and-after photos to show how the details make the difference.

This is a small doily or coaster pattern that I just love.  The way the white thread overlays the red center is just beautiful to me.  The pattern is called "Sunmote", designed by Julia Hart.  The pattern can be found here -->  https://www.draiguna.com/2018/02/sunmote.html  and is also available on Ravelry.com.  

I don't like making picots.  But I love the finish look they give a project.  The first "Sunmote" I made, I omitted the picots.  The pattern calls for 120 of them on this small doily.  Here is the unblocked photo:

It's still pretty.  Looks nice and I wouldn't have a problem putting it .... as is .... on my table.  But then another crocheter posted a photo of the ones she made for her daughter's wedding .... with picots.  Gosh, they looked beautiful, but I was still unwilling to do 120 of them on mine.  So I modified the last row and added a single picot on each "petal" of the doily. Compare them side by side.  The difference is subtle, but it makes a difference.

But wait .... I'm not done.  I always block all of my thread work so I pinned it to my bulletin board (that I use to block projects), sprayed it with just plain water, and let it sit overnight.  With this design, I had to pin the overlap onto the red center.

And here is the final result.  Compare this to the first photo.  With picots and after being blocked, it doesn't look like the same item.  Notice how the design is more clear after the blocking process.....you can see more of the detail.

I then made a set for Easter, in purple and peach.

This pattern is great for using up those leftover threads in your stash.  The pattern calls for size 3 thread and a larger hook for the center (red) and size 10 thread and smaller hook for the outer edging (white).  I didn't use size 3 thread when I made the purple/peach but I just had to add 2 rows to get my inner circle the correct size.  Had to add 2 rows to make the math come out right (final stitch count should be divisible by 4).  Of the two, I like the red one (size 3 thread) better because the thickness works better for use as a coaster.  If you are going to use it as a small doily (under a candy dish or flower vase), the thickness may not make a difference.

If you try this pattern, please visit Julia Hart's page and let her know you found it here!